Contemporary Fashion: Eleven New Designers

WORDS BY YILING ZHAO / @ZHXO_

SIMONE ROCHA SS16
Fashion is inevitably defined by its motivation of continual change together with new ideas, and fueling this process is a diverse group of radical new designers who are rapidly propelling fashion forward by questioning the current style zeitgeist.
   Eleven new designers present an introductory snapshot of modern fashion design, and those individuals who play an integral part within it. This new generation of designers is defined by an eagerness to present a unique and personal philosophy of clothing and fashion design encompassing menswear, womenswear, and accessory designs.
   The fashion industry no longer is confined by style rules or traditional manufacturing processes and methods, but firmly is focused on the sole expression of designers' individuality, creativity, and vision as a result of fashion now existing as a global community where images of the latest catwalk shows are available online to everyone, and if you own a credit card, you can purchase anything from anywhere.
   While fashion may have lost some of its previous mystique, it is still a global industry that fascinates consumers, enthralls, spectators, and continually grows into an increasingly powerful and significant part of our lives.
   To the new designers featured here, however, the globalization of fashion and the power of big brands are at the opposite end of the fashion spectrum in terms of what they are trying to achieve. Instead of mass market appeal and homogenization of fashion, these creatives are focused on developing their own singular vision and reinterpreting contemporary clothing.
   Not all of their work is about developing big business and selling huge quantities of clothes, but is concerned with suggesting new concepts and tapping into a consumer desire of alternatives in fashion.

I. Meadham Kirchhoff



This London-duo have been spreading their special brand of kitsch — 
a rainbow recipe that’s sickly sweet and slightly wrong since 2006. Their epic SS15 offering blew the lid off the row, and came with a 'riot gurl-inspired' zine.

II. Craig Green






British designer Craig Green has won over many of the industry's influentials since his premier AW13 collection.
   Green’s designs are imbued with his fierce commitment to concept and challenging forms. The Londoner’s true genius lay with his ability to parlay his inspirations into unique yet wearable clothing.

III. SIBLING menswear


SIBLING launched on May 29th, 2008. The menswear collection is a collaboration between Joe Bates, Sid Bryan, and Cozette McCreery. 
   What gives SIBLING the attraction is it so undoubtedly receives its leopard motifs, breton stripes, and vibrant-colored knitwear dynamically, which have gone beyond aesthetics since their premier collection. It is integral to the label’s DNA. 

IV. House of Malakai


Malakai is a self-taught, multi-disciplinary artist based in Bali, Indonesia, creating bespoke fashions , jewelry and decor since 1999. His creations have a particular attention to detail and hand craft, in combination with modern digital techniques.
   Malakai’s influences are culled from high fashion, science, revolutionaries, archaeological digs, and underground movements. Ancient tribal culture weaves seamlessly with cutting edge technology in the hands of this multimedia artist. His work transcends our time – a familiar memory of something we’ve never seen before.

V. 0044


0044, a fashion label conceived by Parisienne artistic director Seiichrio Shimamura in 1998 opened its first shop in 2001. It is known as the ‘boutique rouge’ thanks to its predominantly red décor as an integral part of the label’s design philosophy of ‘revolutionary romanticism’. Motifs of skulls and French heritage are also key components of the collections, which are designed and manufactured in France.

VI. Chromat


Chromat began in 2010 as an extension from Becca Mccharen's theoretical background in architecture and urban design. Her continued interest in scaffolding, city maps, wearable exoskeletons and the intricacies of undergarments have been explored as each new collection develops, drawing from Mccharen's focus on structural experiments for the human body.

VII. Studio XO


Fast fashion has a new interface. Working at the juncture of art and science, wearable tech fanatics Nancy Tilbury and Benjamin Males were behind Richard Nicoll’s fibre-optic opening act for SS15 and Gaga’s infamous flying dress. But Studio XO’s stratospheric designs are sci-fact, not -fi; in 2015, so they say, even ready-to-wear clothing will compute.

VIII. Louise Gray


London is in a craze for the work of young Scottish fashion designers and Louise Gray is leading the charge alongside designers Jonathan Saunders and her Central Saint Martins' colleague Christopher Kane. Gray's eponymous label has come to represent the boundary-free creativity that UK is known for, with collections that are unapologetically bright, playful and loud. 
   Sarah Mower, British Fashion Council emerging talent ambassador has Gray beautifully written down as "uniquely colourful, whose wit has lit up the London runway in a way that brings an irrepressible sense of fun to British fashion."

IX. Simone Rocha


Simone Rocha, graduate from the acclaimed Fashion MA at Central Saint Martin’s College, London, debuted at London Fashion Week in September 2010. Rocha must be one of the most romantic designers working today. In Rocha's designs, romance isn't interpreted as surface prettiness; "she gets at the emotional life of romance, its skipping heartbeat."
   Simone has proved to us time and time again that she is truly pursuing the fashion industry by storm, as she has garnered the titles of Young Designer of the Year at The Harper’s Women of the Year Awards 2014 and the 2014 British Fashion Award for New Establishment Designer.

X. Salo Shayo



Salomon Shayo Ambe, born and raised in Mexico City, graduated in 2014 with a textile and fashion design BA at sentro de Diseño Cine y Televisión University situated in Mexico City. With an eye for detail and genuine interest in experimental techniques, Salomon constantly works with diverse aspects of materiality and structure of form and silhouette. According to his words, "My research is on the way garments can make an impact on our emotions and our memories, based on the unconscious relations between the human being and the garments we wear."
   Keep on the lookout for Salo Shayo as a regular in our favourite glossy magazines; Salo has been Featured as new talent by Vogue Italia, Vogue Mexico, L´Officiel Russia, and Vogue Talents amongst plenty others, with more yet to come.

XI. Thome Browne Womenswear




New York-based designer Thom Browne began his eponymous label in 2001, 10 years prior to introducing his first womenswear collections in 2011. Both lines maintain a sense of theatrical flair while remaining true to Browne's vision of precise tailoring and a subverted "Americana."

From romance at Simone Rocha to Meadham Kirchhoff's psychedelic garage rave vibes, all are part of a global industry who appeals with the mavericks to the mainstream, club kids to celebrities, anyone can be a part of it. In an industry that reveres new talent, an introduction to a mere eleven new designers who are each fulfilling important individual roles as innovators is only the tip of the iceberg.

2 comments:

  1. I loved this But it's too bad Meadham Kirchhoff announced the end of their line not long after this article was posted

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Its really a shame! Wasn't even the industry's fault this time, everyone loved the duo.

      Delete